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Puppy Training, The First Stages

• Laying Foundations
Start puppy training at about 12 weeks, this is not actual training but conditioning the dog, ready for training.

How long will it take? The answer is - for the rest of the dog’s life, there are always little faults that will need to be ironed out. If they are ignored they could develop into a bigger problem. If in doubt always seek professional advice.

Though your puppy has been well socialised as far as possible (considering he has not had his vaccinations), from about 14 weeks, following vaccinations, I like to socialise puppies with other people and dogs as often as possible. Also at an early age get him used to travelling in a vehicle. Take him on a short journey then let him have a run around so that he can associate travelling in vehicle with something pleasant, and an opportunity to explore the big wide world.

Don't let your dog get too far away, every now and again, give two toots on the whistle, (if you intend using a whistle), and call him by name then turn and walk in the opposite direction. Your puppy will follow, as he comes up to you, kneel down and make a fuss of him and with a soft low voice tell him he is a good boy, then let him go off exploring again.

Repeat this a few times on each outing. What you are doing is laying the foundations for recall, retrieving and general obedience. You are making yourself the pack leader - Top Dog - but you are doing it without your puppy realising it!

• Jumping Up
If your puppy jumps up for attention or affection – completely ignore him, it is not acceptable. If he sees no reaction to this, he will soon stop doing it. As cute as it may be at an early age, Labrador Retrievers grow to be very powerful animals and can easily knock over a small child unintentionally.

• Walking to Heel
At about six months it is time to get a little bit serious.... and teach your puppy to walk to heel on the lead. Keep the sessions short, no more than 15 minutes.

Most owners make fundamental errors at this stage of training by allowing the dog to pull them along. It then becomes a game of tug-o-war. This is not acceptable - the best thing to do is find somewhere along a country road, where there will be no distracting scent - place a rope slip lead around your dogs neck, and give the verbal command heel - then walk slowly forward - the dog will naturally take exception to this!!

Basically what you are trying to do is make the dog feel uncomfortable unless he is in the position you want him to be in. If he pulls forward, a sharp jerk on the lead will put him back in the proper position. If he lags behind, just increase your walking speed, and you will find that the dog has to increase its speed to keep up with you.

It is not always wise to walk in a straight line - alternate with a figure of eight to keep your dog interested - this also offers left and right hand turns - thus making it difficult for your dog to anticipate your next move.

It shouldn't take long for your dog to realise that the most comfortable position is the right position - walking to heel. There should be no strain on the lead whatsoever. Once this is achieved you can slip in a little 'sit' command by gently pushing the dogs behind down - this will also help allay any boredom for the dog. You can also establish eye contact by doing this and lay the foundations for future exercises.